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Chain link fencing is one of the most attractive options for many reasons, one of which is the price point compared to other fence types you could be using. Even so, the chain link mesh offers your property a measure of security, and it will not diminish the property’s aesthetic as it does so.
Some property owners will elect to paint the posts and mesh to blend in with the intended color scheme. Before you think of all of that, though, you need to install the fence, and this is what you will be learning about today.
Below is a comprehensive guide on what the installation process looks like and some costing details to give you an idea of what you may need to pay for this kind of project. Note that this is usually at least a two-person endeavor.
What Are the Different Essential Parts of a Chain Link Fence
As simple as a chain link fence may look when the installation is complete, quite a few pieces go into putting one together, and as always, knowing the elements that go into any such project is a non-negotiable before starting. Here are the parts of the fence:
Terminal posts: These will be installed at the fence’s corners and gates where applicable and are the main structural support elements. You may also see them being called corner posts.
Tension bar – This is a long, flat metal piece that will be threaded through the ends of the fence fabric to connect it to the fence posts. Terminal post cap. This will fit over the top of the terminal posts and bears a conical shape.
Wire fence ties – This is where the fence fabric is secured to the posts and rails. It bears a heavy-gauge design for an apparent reason.
Top rail – Support is offered to the fence fabric here by running along the fence’s top from post to post.
Rail cups – These offer support to the top rail and will be attached at the top of each terminal post in the system.
Tension wire – This is used to prevent any animals from getting under the base of the fence. It’s a wire that runs from post to post, threaded through the fence fabric.
Line post – This is where you get vertical support between terminal posts.
Tension band – Tension bands will wrap around terminal posts to ensure the tension bar is in place. This is why the fence will stay taut and upright.
Line post loop cap – It’s named for its loop that allows the top rail through. These will fit on line posts.
Fence fabric – This is the body of the fence. It’s the actual chain link that you think about where these kinds of fences are concerned.
Brace band – The metal band is attached at the base of the terminal posts and will support the tension wire.
Here’s What the Chain Link Fence Installation Process Looks Like
With that out of the way, it’s almost time to let the fence installation segment begin. Before you do all that, though, it’s probably a good idea to let anyone who needs to know about the fence in on what is about to happen.
For example, some places will need landlord approval. Others may need approval from the applicable homeowners association before any project like this gets going. Additionally, the fence plan must align with your zone’s allowances.
The last thing you want is to have to remove the fence that you invested in, especially since you will also be the one bearing that cost.
Step One: The Utilities
Obviously, the fence is not a topical installation. You will need holes to put the post in to secure the structure. Therefore, utility lines running underground could very well be in danger. Therefore, you’ll want to reach out to the companies to have a representative come and indicate where these are.
This will usually be done using flags to give you a clear indication. With these in place, it’s much easier to steer clear of them as you dig fence post holes. This might seem like an annoying thing to have to do, but skipping it could proverbially put you in the mud later on.
Step Two: Planning the Chain Link Fencing Layout
Now, you know where the utilities are that you need to avoid. This means it’s time to get the planning phase started. You know what they say! If you fail to plan, then you plan to fail, and you don’t want that, right?
Stakes and string lines are significant in helping you to plan things. You’ll want to kick things off by deciding where your terminal posts are going. Where are the corners, gates, etc.? Landscaping spray can help you to mark these.
You also want to figure out your line posts. Good post spacing is key here. Usually, a maximum of 10-foot intervals will be sufficient. Remember that a sturdier fence comes from tighter spacing, so this is not the time to be conservative.
Step Three: Grab Your Post Hole Digger
Now it’s time for the real work to begin. If you have a power auger or post-hole digger, get it and start to dig holes for the terminal posts. These will be deeper and wider than those for the line posts.
Going below the frost line, typically 30 inches deep, is recommended. Note your pole diameter. The hole diameters need to be three times that.
Step Four: Set Your Chain Link Fence Posts
With the holes ready, you can work on setting the posts. Hopefully, you have a wheelbarrow because it’s time to mix some concrete. You want to achieve cake batter consistency here since you want it thick enough to keep the post upright.
Start filling the post hole with a few inches of dry concrete. Put in the pole, using the assistance of a post level. Next, it’s time to start shoveling in some wet concrete. Remember that you don’t want spots of concrete at the top, so you’ll want to ensure there are a few inches between the top of the concrete and the yard level since soil should cover it once you’re done.
Step Five: Set Your Line Posts
With the terminal posts set, it’s time for the string line to come into play. Run it along the post tops and pull until it is taut. The line will be used as a guide to set up the line posts. It ensures they will all be the same height.
Use quick-setting concrete if you want to make things a bit quicker here. Remember that terminal posts will need to support a lot more weight than these will, so you shouldn’t have a problem doing this.
If going this route, put each post in its designated hole and use a post level for assistance. Now, it’s time to pour some dry concrete into the hole, with water added afterward. The concrete will need a few days to set properly, so you must wait before moving on.
Step Six: Time For Your Fence Hardware
Now, things get even more enjoyable. A brace band needs to be put on each terminal post, with three tension bands being used. This is an ideal amount for a 4-foot chain link fence. If yours is going to be higher, you will need more bands.
Following this, the top of each post will need a rail cup with a brace band. The final piece of the puzzle is to put a post cap atop each post. A rubber mallet can be used to drive them into place. Double the number of elements you use for your corner posts since you’ll need to consider each fence direction.
Step Seven: Rail Time
For each line post, you will want to add post loop caps. The first top rail will go through the loops, eventually pushed into the rail cup on the terminal post. It would be best to secure the rail cup by fighting its bolt.
Connecting the top rails shouldn’t be a problem since they feature a narrower diameter on one end that’s meant to make the whole process easier. When you get to the next terminal post, you can use a hacksaw to get the rail to the size you need. Repeat the fitting and tightening steps.
Step Eight: Time to Add the Fencing
Now, the fencing fabric comes into play. the long tension bars need to be threaded through vertically. This will see the wires weaving around it. The tension bar will then be bolted to the tension bands on the first pole.
Get rid of any slack with your fence, unrolling along the top rail. Periodically, you’ll need to secure the fence to the top and line rails with the wire fence ties. Do so loosely since you want to eliminate any slack easily enough later.
Step Nine: Fence Stretching
Remember that you’re trying to achieve a taut feel here, so you’ll want your fabric to be as tight as possible as you move to the next terminal post in the sequence. Sagging is the last thing you want to see.
Note that this is not something that bare hands can do. That’s where a fence puller comes into the question. One end will be attached to an end of the fence fabric, with the other at the other end of the terminal post. Stretch the fence fabric tight.
You shouldn’t be able to squeeze the fence links more than a 1/4 inch with your fingers. A pair of pliers can then be used to remove leftover fencing. You’ll want to remove one strand from the top and bottom.
A tension bar should be slid through the end of the fabric and bolted to the tension bands. This is the same thing that was done on the other end.
Step 10: Securing Your Fence Fabric
With the fence fabric taut, use further fence ties to secure it to the line poles. One tie should be added every 12 inches and every 2 feet on line posts and the top rail.
Threading tension wire through the bottom and securing it around the posts is a good idea if you want to stop animals from pushing out the bottom of the fence.
The Cost of a Chain Link Fence
Typically, the materials will run you about $4 – $15 per linear foot, with professional installation often costing $5 – $15 per linear foot. When labor and materials are combined, an average fence will often cost around $2,000.
The Bottom Line
As you can see from the steps above, a chain link fence installation can be very involved. If you want the best results, consider hiring a professional.
Frequently Asked Questions
The average labor cost is about $5 – $15 per linear foot. On an average fence, that can be around $1,000 in total.
This will be anywhere from $800 to $2,000 on average.
With a 4-foot fence, 24 inches of depth is recommended. Increase this by 3 inches for every additional foot of height.
While you can, getting professional assistance for the best results is best. It’s not a single-person job, and the process is very involved.